Stalled out now won't restart
Hi all, Was going to go get the truck weighed today so I can get it registered and had a problem.
Started fine pulled out of the garage and let it idle a bit befor going to get gas. Had little trouble starting it at the station, kicked in and was rough at first so I drove around the block by the house to smoth it out. Came to a stop sign and it stalled. Would not restart. Let it rest still nothing. Had to push it back home.
Checking things, getting gas, ckecked spark plugs and cleaned them. Pulled the wire from the coil and saw a spark. Seeing a small spark on the #2 plug, not sure if they are all sparking. Tried a little eather and that did not work.
Have a 308 with pertronics parts in the distributer. 12V system.
What should I be looking for?
Thanks,
Lance
Started fine pulled out of the garage and let it idle a bit befor going to get gas. Had little trouble starting it at the station, kicked in and was rough at first so I drove around the block by the house to smoth it out. Came to a stop sign and it stalled. Would not restart. Let it rest still nothing. Had to push it back home.
Checking things, getting gas, ckecked spark plugs and cleaned them. Pulled the wire from the coil and saw a spark. Seeing a small spark on the #2 plug, not sure if they are all sparking. Tried a little eather and that did not work.
Have a 308 with pertronics parts in the distributer. 12V system.
What should I be looking for?
Thanks,
Lance
0
Comments
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Just an update, got it started, running rough but was able to get it back into the garage. The OIL light is staying on, only going off if I rev it up.
One question; changing it to 12V, the coil was changed to a 12V coil along with the other things above. Did I need to add an ignition resistor or not? I notice that it does drop the voltage, do I need more going to the distributor then to the plugs?
Thanks again.0 -
I am no Hudson expert by any means, but I have used Pertronix electronic ignition systems before with excellent results. Are you using a a Flame Thrower coil or just a stock 12volt coil? Fire,Fuel and Compression. I'd check them in that order.0
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Lance,
Not an expert but I installed Ballast Resisters on my two 12V Hudson's from late 60's Chevy readily available at most Auto Stores. Additionally, I favor Electronic Ignitions...I installed a Crane XR700 Ign from E bay replacing the Points and condenser forever that works Great! I also recommend the Pertonix Kits and never remove cap again....
Oil light staying on is another problem. Could be the wire touching a ground to a worn motor... Try screwing a gauge in at the Sender to see the actual Pressure. If Low, you could try using heavier WT oil awhile....0 -
Thanks racer. I do have the resistor and the pertonix installed, just wondered if I needed a stronger spark.
As for the oil light, thanks I will try a gage there to see whats going on.
Danarchy, just a stock coil. Will that help?0 -
Pertronix makes a coil called a "Flame Thrower" that is a High output coil. It might be what you need if a weak spark is the problem. Have you run a compression check?0
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do they make six volt set up?
Harry0 -
Yes, I have one on my 308 stroker. Works fine.
Jay0 -
What is the model number on yours for the stroker?
Harry0 -
OK, changed to the flame thrower and still the same problem. Starts fine, runs for a while, gets hot, harder to start, runs rough, stalls out and wont restart. Now what???0
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You seem to indicate this problem arises when the engine gets hot. I had a coil that would go out on me whenever it got hot. The car would begin to run roughly, and then -- if I turned the engine off -- it simply would not start until it cooled down. A new coil solved the problem.
Could you borrow a good one from friend, to try?0 -
That kind of sounds like vapor lock, it doesn't take much heat in the wrong place to vapor lock a fuel line. Get some wooden cloths pins and clip them on the fuel line near any bends, they act as heat sinks and could keep the fuel from vaporizing and stopping the flow.
Harry0 -
Jon, I bought a new coil and installed it with the same results so I dno't think its the coil. Does it need the resistor in line? I could remove that and try.
Harry, I will try the clothes pins, only have one real bend in the line but open to anything at this point.
Thanks guys0 -
Harry,
The pertronix part number is 1362P6. It is for a 6v positive ground car.
Jay0 -
Jay;
thank you. I like keeping this car original but anything that will make it run more dependably is allowable in my book. Right now I have a little miss that I haven't been able to track down and I think eliminating the points and condenser could help. How easy was the pertronix to install? Does it just drop into the distributor?0 -
Jay;
I can see from their website I need to find out if I have a delco or autolite distributer. It looks like Hudson used the autolite and AMC used the Delco distributor, so my 55 Hash could have either in it I guess. I'll know tomorrow when I can see it in the daylight.
Harry0 -
Harry,
Very easy to install with lots of room. I live within 1 mile of their office so i just took my distributer in and they told me what to get. i would think is wold work with all stepdown units. if not give them a call the staff is happy to answer your questions. When my 46 or 37 start giving me problems I was going to take the distributer out and take it down ans ask what unit fits.
Jay0 -
I had no problem installing the kit.0
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OK all, time for this shade tree mechanic to call in the experts. I will give Bill A a call when he gets back to go over the engine, but is there anyone else close to me to take a look at it? San Gaberial area.
Lance0 -
Lance;
wish I could help but it's been too long since I've had to do any real mechanical work. I'm just getting back to things now. Tracked down a vacuum leak tonight and installed outside mirrors. I still have a miss and the car seems to run out of power on the high speed side. I thought the miss would disappear when the vacuum leak was fixed but that wasn't the case. Since my car has the Autolite distributor I will use the same ignitor the step downs use 1362P6. It seems even though the body is a Nash the engine and drive train is Hudson. We messed with the timing a bit tonight and messed up the start so we had to get it set back so I could get home, what is that saying? If it ain't broke, fix it till it is. Well, I almost fixed the Hash till it wouldn't start. What is the secret of getting a timing light to work. I've tried two and can't get them lit to check my timing.
Harry0 -
Lance
Spark and fuel... need them to make the engine go.... all snide remarks aside... make sure the spark is strong and at each plug. Make sure that fuel is in the carb and that when you move the throttle linkage you see fuel being introduced into the manifold. If that occurs and the engine does not start... or sputter. Check the compression in each cylinder... should be sufficent to compress the gas so that the spark will ignite the gas.
Good luck.0 -
Ken;
it all sounds so simple, and basically it is. If our engines ran at one constant speed with the same load all the time it would be so easy to tune them. My Hash is running pretty good now but it runs better without a load then when it's pulling the car around. Now I'm working on getting the top end of the pulling straightened out. I know it's just a matter of getting the fuel air mixture right, and the timing, and the lubrication, oh yeah, and the fire. I guess that is the fun of tuning.
Harry0 -
Harry Hill wrote:do they make six volt set up?
Harry
Yes they do. Its a little more expensive but nothing to worry about. A lot of threads talk about 12v upgrades and all the problems you will then have with worn out & broken starters if you still use the existing 6v starter. I heard of someone getting a piece of 250mm long by 16mm wide stainless steel and bending it in the shape of a 'W' and attaching it to the solinoid for the battery lead connection. The resistance of the stainless drops the voltage to the starter.
Hope this is of interest. Regards, Barry. HETsweetman@virginbroadband.com.au0 -
Another suggestion, if your going to the house when it quits and comeing back to it later you will NEVER get it fixed, gotta do it NOW. Been some good input here but something is missing someplace. Don't jump around, prove if it's spark or fuel one at a time.If it runs good cold that eliminates worn lobes in the dist. If it runs good cold at all speeds also eliminates timeing and advance, GOT TO be sure the advance is working. Check that spark at the plug when COLD, then when HOT. If not the same replace the coil/condenser . Another check, look at your plug wires in the dark to see if it's jumping wires and cross fireing. The slightest jump won't show in daylight but will make it cross fire. That should take care of spark. Put a simple pressure guage on the fuel line cold and after hot. That eliminates the pump. Another thing ,when you say hot do you mean warmed up or an overheated engine?If it's too hot you gotta fix that to get anything to work right. Got everything working up to here? When it goofs up jump out and like the guy said, check for fuel squirting in the carb. Not there could be the vapor lock thing. Another item is crap in the carb that just takes some running to draw it up to where it causes stopage, at the float needle seat or the metering rods and jets. DO THE SPARK THING FIRST,it's easeir to find than fuel problems. Post your results on it then let the guys work on fuel, ONE STEP AT A TIME from pump pressure on up the line0
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Harry you might want to check those wires in the dark to. My neigbors van ran good, that is untill he wanted to go fishin, put a little aluminum boat on trailer behind it and went BLAWW. Spent over $500 bucks on it still went BLAWW. I took it out at night and sure enough,cross fire,very small hard to see even in the dark, put some new wires on it and got 4 fresh salmon for the job. Hey, they're great cooked over charcoal with a simple sauce the wife makes,try it0
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As far as spark being the easiest to check, I would disagree. I used to drive an AAA tow truck where we dealt with dozens of disabled cars each week, and the first thing we would check if an engine would not start is fuel. We checked it with a can of starting fluid. An engine without fuel (say with a bad fuel pump) will run for a few seconds on starting fluid, quickly isolating the problem without dealing with spark plug wires that, in the case of a modern car, are often inaccessable and usually stuck on the plug.0
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I checked the car last night but it may not have been dark enough where I was working. I had a VW once that wouldn't start in damp weather. I sprayed the wires with laquer hair spray, any trick I could think of, couldn't really see a problem in the dark but it was driving me crazy. Went out one night with a spray bottle set on mist and everytime I would mist the engine it looked like a light show with arcing everywhere, nothing ever fixed that completely, even new wires arced, I finally sold the car and let it become another guys project. My Hudson is running fine without a load and even good under acceleration, once in high gear though at freeway speed I can feel it dragging, even at idle though there is a slight miss, I will try misting the wires tonight.
Harry0 -
The timing light problem could be because most timing lights are designed to function on 12v. You may have to hook up the light to a 12v battery.
53jetman0 -
determineing WHETHER OR NOT SPARK/FUEL is differant than chaseing problems on one that runs but not as it should, start at the coil and follow it's path to the spark at the plug cold and hot, Much less to check/replace than fuel problems. Get your spark working THEN attack the fuel situation, same deal point a to b and on up the line0
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Harry, It sounds to me like you have a timing problem. I would try advancing timing just a bit, then driving it. See if there is a difference.
Bob0 -
OK, new coil, checking from there into the distributer. I have a ignition resistor installed which reduces the voltage to the distributer. Do I need to remove this and run it straight from the coil into the distributer?0
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