Terraplane Woes
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Still cannot get the 37 Terraplane to run right. It will not want to run above about 1200 rpm or so without puking out . It will start fine sit and idle fine I have tried new fuel, new fuel filter, new fuel pump, rebuilt carb, new plugs plugwires ign cond. Checked ign. timing with timing light is ok. You can drive around the block in 2nd gear at about 15mph. and your ok just dont try to go any faster or theres ahuge flat spot with nothing there till you let back up on the gas and back to15mph. or so it will start instantly at the push of the starter button when warmed up tried it 5 or 6 times and it fires right up . any ideas guys? Thanks Chuck G
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Comments
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Just grasping at straws, here: have you checked for the smooth operation of the distributor advance mechanism? When you use a timing light and look at the flywheel, do the TDC marks advance smoothly as the engine speeds up? Or jump around?0
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ken i did not have a brand new cond. just one of another 37 distr. that had worked ok . Jon to tell you the truth i really didnt watch to see if it was advancing when reved up. I did adjust the timing up a little as it was a little retarded a couple degrees.0
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Gotta put the meter on it and check the advance.VERY CRITICAL and a pretty good guess as to your problem.At the cost of it I would'nt mess with a used condenser either.0
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Is your accelerator pump working? It sounds like you can drive it at an idle or just above - maybe the accelerator pump is tango uniform!0
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I had a similar problem with my '58 Fairlane. It would start easily and run beautifully at low revs, but would gasp and splutter at any attempt at higher revs. New condensor and it ran fantastically again.0
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It definitely sounds like a timing problem. I got my '36T running this summer and I couldn't go up hill, the timing was way off. Once I got it set correctly it ran fine. See if you can also get the distributor on a machine to test it. It could be frozen up inside and the mechanical advance not working correctly?0
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If the ignition things don't fix it...............I had a couple of similar problems. My 42 would always do a similar thing in the spring after setting all winter. It turned out to be that the valves were hanging up. If you get compression back into the intake, it really upsets the whole engine. A dose of Marvel Mystery Oil down the carb and a little in the tank always took care of it. The other instance was on a 39 that had a intake valve retainer that was worn through, resleasing all of the spring tensoin on the valve. It would run Ok until the valve didn't close on it's own. Then it would back fire through the carb. Good luck!0
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Just got home from work .(YES I DO HAVE TO WORK A JOB TO SUPPORT THIS HABIT) Anyway iwent out to the shop and started the Terraplane up she fires right up so i put the timing light on it to see if advance was working and it does moves right away when engine is accelerated, I thought i may as well shoot some marvel mystery oil in a spray bottle down the carb to see if that helps. it did not seem to, i did not have a new condenser so i used one off another 37 distr. carb. has fresh rebuild and of course a new accelarator pump is included in a kit. Nothing new still bogs out? Chuck G.0
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Have you tried a new coil?0
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No i have not tried a new coil the coil on the car is the orig. type coil.0
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Chuck;
Another thing you could try is using a vacuum gauge to set the timing. You can get one at your local auto parts store. I think I got mine from NAPA. The instructions that come with it will tell you how to set timing and the different readings on the gauge will indicate other problems, such as sticking valves, restricted exhaust, leaking rings,etc. If you haven't done one yet, take a compression test. Some times these things can be a real head ache. It's just a process of elimination.0 -
I have a vacuum gauge i could hook up it wouldnt hurt. maybe tommorow night after work i will try it nothing to lose i should try a NEW condenser its hard to believe both used cond. would be bad, but they are cheap.0
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Still sounds like an accelerator pump...0
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How about dropping the exhaust pipe off the manifold, tying it up out the way and trying it, sometimes a collapsed muffler or pipe will still look O.K. on the outside and be blocked internally. Something to think about.0
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You should check the gas flow at the carburetor and the fuel line between the engine and the frame for blockages.0
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chuck, i did not see the earlier post. did this problem start suddenly? had you worked on the car just prior to the start of this problem? the accelerator pump seems lees likely to me because the engine won't run at all above 1200 RPM, not just during acceleration. does the engine just die or is there some poppping and farting prior to quitting..or does it not quit but run rough? i had a similar problem that turned out to be a bad coil and a vacuum leak. how do the points look? proper gap? keep us in the loop. any additional info will help. the guys here are pretty sharp. i have learned a lot. regards, tom0
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It dies out at about 1200 rpm or at idle you can increase rpm to about that then it just starts dying out till you let up on gas then it will run up to 1200 or so again What maybe 15 mph or so . Remember i have already replaced the carb and fuel pump to see if that helps The coil is the original with the cable running up to the ign. switch not sure what i need to run a reg. 6 volt coil?0
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I,ll go with steve on this, sounds like collapsed exhaust pipe or internal muffler problem.if a catalytic convertor plugs up on any newer car, runs just like yours does.0
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any 6v coil,Just need to get 6 volts to it from anywhere and to the distributer to check if that is the problem, you should also be able to tell by pulling one plug wire and observeing the spark to be in a constant rythem and have a pretty good jump to the plug. BUT, that will only tell you if spark is the problem,still gotta sort out the condenser/coil and all the other stuff suggested. The exhaust doesn't sound likely to me and it can be checked just by putting your hand over it to see if it has good pressure comeing out.0
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lot,s of good ideas here sir, i got my 37 terriblepain coupe about 6-7 years ago and everyone here was great help. keep working on her and when you get it right on the money, mine was a clutch/throwout bearing/trans problem. you will get the great big grin on when you drive her, i do. look like and act like i am 20 years old again. dermott:)0
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dermott, Time capsul ? I'm 72, get my levis rolled up 3 inches ,pull on my engineers boots, pair of aviation sunglasses, jump in the 37 "T" , yank on the WOLF WHISTLE at the ladies ,do the SEE YA LATER ALLIGATER / AFTER WHILE CROCKIDILE thing, and ignore the quizzical looks from some and just chuckle., I'm back in 1952 when I had my first 37 "T" at 17 and the whole world was still bright and shiney. If I could just find a good DRIVE IN with the gals on roller skates ! Havin a BLAST0
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sorry to jog off here for 1 min., but, brother 37 here we have 'cruisen' the dub' a&w . check this out www.aw.ca , i am looking for an old/stable tray that they used to use to hook onto your door. anybody have one collecting dust???? , something original. not for re-sale, just for me and my coupe. i have only seen 1 car here with one and it looked cool. the next best thing would be an old drive-in speaker with some wiring hanging down. the oldtimer hot rodders will laugh at the memorys, lol. dermott:cool:0
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We're not helping get the car going but we'll get back to that.--- dermott, getbon ebay and enter DRIVE IN THEATER SPEAKERS--- next search enter DRIVE IN CAR TRAY--several of each on there now. DON'T SPILL THE ROOT BEER IN THE CAR<>STICKY MESS-- Now lets get that other car going and we'll cruise up and down MAIN STREET0
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dermott wrote:lot,s of good ideas here sir, i got my 37 terriblepain coupe about 6-7 years ago and everyone here was great help. keep working on her and when you get it right on the money, mine was a clutch/throwout bearing/trans problem. you will get the great big grin on when you drive her, i do. look like and act like i am 20 years old again. dermott:)
I agree with the above. The problem with my 37 Terra recently was an overcharging 3rd brush genny. It was pumping out 7.5V & 30A at a low RPM and blowing a 25A fuse. Points were very hot and distorted. I had to change the coil & condensor. My new now stuffed battery was using a lot of water. So check your 3rd brush when you can. Regards, Barry.0 -
I was able to try a new condensor from Napa today did not help, also the exhaust system is new so not worried about collapsed pipe etc. also the car was just sponged bath washed not soaked so i am not worried about a chance of any water getting into the ignition etc, i have tommorow off so i hope to get it running then i am going to take the carb apart to look see even though it has been fresh rebuild. like others have said i wonder if its not the accelerator pump leather? Thanks Chuck G0
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That acell pump is checked just by haveing gas in the carb and looking in it as you work the accellerater , you will of course pump it out in about a half dz strokes and has very little to do with how it runs at higher rpm as it only puts more gas in for an instant, the metering rods or jets whichever your carb has is what controls the gas at higher rpm. I would'nt take it apart untill you proved everything else to be right. ONE AT A TIME get it haveing a good 1/4 inch spark jump from the wire to the plug,make sure the advance is working,then set the timeing, Get those working and don't change them again,that you know is right then no matter how it runs. Then Check the fuel pressure to the carb. OK check the accellerater pump,don't need it running. Run it and when it wants to die make it die, hold it on the floor till it stops turning over completely. At this point check the acellerator pump again to see if there is gas in the carb. If there is you likely have a vacume leak which can be hard to find sometimes. If no gas then it is likely that there is some crud in the float needle/seat as you have a new carb but could have gotten something in the line while putting it on. Don't go to the next possablety without correct any defect you find, follow the chain of events on each item. FRESH GAS? OLD gas don't run worth a darn.0
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Contrary to the above, the accelerator pump CAN indeed be the problem, here is why:
Function
The function of the accelerator pump is to momentarily provide the additional quantity of fuel needed during acceleration, until the flow delivered from the main metering system increases. This is required whenever the throttle is suddenly opened.
The pump is a piston type pump, operated through the throttle linkage. It is used in stage I only. Located inside the float chamber, it is constantly surrounded by gasoline.
When the pump lever is actuated, the pump piston forces fuel through channels and out through the calibrated injection pipe into the carburetor throat.
Problem
Examine pump plunger for damage and sticking. A faulty accelerator pump will cause:
1. Hesitation on acceleration
2. Stalling
3. Fuel consumption
Test: Pump lever should have tension‹if not, pump is binding in bore
If he can go no more than 10-15 mph, he is basically idling to get there. If the pump isn't working, he isn't going to go faster than whatever idle gets him, as he can't get the fuel there in the first place.0 -
Yes everything electrical checks out I went thru all the ideas offered by the guys on this forum so i took the carb apart even though it was freshly rebuilt i did find something wrong inside. the accelerator pump plunger leather retaining nut was not tight at all it was ready to fall off! I retighted it up per carter manual instructions which of course made it a lot snugger in the bore than it was being just loose. And i ran out of time and had to leave it till Sat. evening I cannot wait to try it out everything else checked out ok , I will keep you all informed. Thanks Chuck G0
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Operation of the pump was correctly stated above, but think it over, MOMENTARY ADDED FUEL IS WHAT IT DOES, has no effect what ever after that and does not in any way limit rpm's , as was said above the needles or jets combined with the air past the butterfly do that. It might cause some bucking if quick throttle was applied because of lots of air and little gas, BUT, altho slugish , light throttle pressure would take it on up. Sort of mute anyway as all he has to do is look in the carb to see if it's working. Chuck , one step at a time in sequence and you'll eventually find it. DON"T jump around,wasted time/effort.0
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I think his findings on the pump has bore my diagnosis out.0
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