Terraplane Woes
Comments
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Okay, I've been away for three weeks. Here's my two cents worth. The accelerator pump won't affect the running, only the acceleration. You can slowly open the throttle and the engine will speed up, no matter what, if everything is okay. The pump is to give a squirt of gas for quick pick-up. To ascertain if it is fuel starvation, take the air cleaner off, rev the engine until is in the starving condition, and hold your hand over the air intake and cover it over progressively. If it is fuel starvation the engine will speed up as you restrict the air. However, you state you have already changed the carburettor. Could it be the fuel pump? Restriction in the line? Blocked tank vent? Have you considered that it may be the valve timing? These engines are notorious for the centre of the fibre gear turning on the centre, retarding the timing. This usually causes a knock though, with the cams and rods colliding. What about the coil input voltage? Should be a full 6 volts at the terminal. I had a bad ignition switch many many years ago, and my Essex would not do over 30 m.p.h. due ot only 2.5 volts getting to the coil. Keep trying, you must isolate the fault in the end. Good luck
Geoff.0 -
All I can say is that I had an identical problem on my old '53 Wasp, and it, too, had a rebuilt carb from a HET member. I had the exact same symptoms. Guess what? The accelerator pump wasn't installed correctly, like the problem that we are talking about. Fixed that, and the car ran great from idle all the way to 70 mph. There.0
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Geoff is absolutely correct in illustrateing that it is not always the same thing that causes the problem,and we all know this guy has been there and done that, pretty darn good at doing what can't be done. That is why it is critical to get on one system and follow the chain of events, correct any faults , then do the same with the other,you may well have more than one problem, seen that many times.0
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total disgust, put carb back on after tightening leather on acc. pump and Nothing! It does not want to run unless it is has a spray bottle squirted into carb it will not stay running this is crazy i will leave it alone till some other time i have had it for now i have overlooked something everything imaginable has been checked. Thanks Chuck0
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Hang in there Chuck ! Not a bad idea sometimes to walk away,clear your head and then bounce back and whip it. Last I heard all elect. system parts are good to go, so that part is done. It will run if you bottle feed it. and this even at idle ? Right?Remember the chain of events approach,and don't skip. Check fuel pressure at the line where it goes into the carb. Do this AFTER you have run it some, you have a neoprene diaphragm that cold may work some and weaken soon when it's flexed, like bending a wire real quick, REAL remote happening but I have seen it. Be a good idea to rig a pressure gauge in the line to moniter it. If it's wrong fix it. the supply line from tank . Give it a darn good blow back to the tank to make sure it's fully open ,but don't blow thru the fuel pump . Lets say we now have fuel at the carb inlet, and no vacume leak at the carb mount or elsewhere, cause you checked that ,right? Ok all good to go to here.Run the engine,When stopped work the accelerater to check the carb pump.If it works fine,if not we still go to next thing. Run the engine again to fill the carb and don't work the accelerater. Pull the carb top and check fuel level in it. If not correct you either have a wrong float setting or a bad needle and seat or both. If these things when corrected don't make it run my opinion is the is the carb is a total MESS, metering rods not set right if it has rods and likely other things, the pump nut thing says somebody did'nt do a good job on it. and best to use a differant one. And it could well be that even tho it is supposed to have been rebuilt you could save a lot of time/work provideing fuel delivery to it is good to just get another one. Would'nt be the first time I saw a new or rebuilt part not be useable.0
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