Reaching Upper Rear Shock Mounts

[Deleted User]
[Deleted User]
edited November -1 in HUDSON
Any tips on reaching the upper mounts for the rear shocks? I have the car on jack stands.



However, I still can not sit up under the car and reach the mounts.



What is your special D-I-Y method?



Thanks in advance............................

Comments

  • Unknown
    Unknown
    When I changed mine, it was pretty uneventful. I don't remember having a struggle doing this. Perhaps, because you have it on jackstands, might be the problem.



    weren't you working on the front of the car?
  • faustmb
    faustmb Senior Contributor
    I also don't remember any special tools or procedure. I had mine on pretty tall jackstands, so I could reach around well and had room to move around. I also used a blanket instead of a creeper, that gave me some more room to work.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    hudsonkid wrote:
    weren't you working on the front of the car?



    Yes, I was/am. Waiting for parts. So since I had the shocks on hand, I thought I would try to get them installed. The front shocks went in easily.
  • Uncle Josh
    Uncle Josh Senior Contributor
    If the rear wheels are on ramps, it's pretty easy to get to.



    By the way, get the tops in first. You may have to shave some rubber off both sides of the mount to get them in the U-channels.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    I do not have ramps. If I put the axel on jack stands instead of the frame, would that be a "safe" alternative?
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    not to do shocks in the back....
  • Uncle Josh
    Uncle Josh Senior Contributor
    Make sure you double block it. I had a friend killed when his jack let go while he was under his Scout.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    all i did was drive my car up onto a couple of railway sleepers to give me some extra clearance when i hopped under there to pull shocks while i replaced the fuel line.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    hudsonkid wrote:
    not to do shocks in the back....



    Why? I already have the lower bolts off. They came off fairly easily after a 24 hour "soak" in Liquid Wrench.
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Pacemaker500 wrote:
    Why? I already have the lower bolts off. They came off fairly easily after a 24 hour "soak" in Liquid Wrench.





    Pacemaker500 wrote:
    I do not have ramps. If I put the axel on jack stands instead of the frame, would that be a "safe" alternative?



    Okay, you asked if it were a safe alternative, I told you no, then you further ask why... I don't know what to tell you. At this point do what you want. Approach it with caution, and good luck.



    Would I work on the back suspension like that? NO WAY. I would not work on anything connected to my lifting point, or items that secure that to the mass I want to elevate. Does it seem to logically make sense how you want to secure that weight, and lift like you are trying to approach it?



    It just make bad sense, and maybe nothing will happen, but then again, working on your hudson should not be a game of russian

    roulette.



    THe ramps don't sound too great to me either. Personally, I would lift it one side at the time from the frame, with the wheel off, and go about it like that.



    I just don't think this is a hard job to do. Hudsondad did his rear shocks on his 52 hornet, while it was bolted to the car trailer.



    I absolutely, cannot remember this being any kind of a bear of a project, when I did mine a few years back. The bushings were the worst part, they were tight, and I think I made them fit by sanding them on the cement pavement where I was laying, and the help of a bit of oil.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User]
    Duh, I see what you are saying now. I did not see all the letters you typed.



    Makes sense. I think I will look to rent a small auto lift.



    The problem I am having is getting my upper body up into the space above the axel so I can get my full weight behind the wrenches thus providing enough torque. I just do not fit.



    They are the OEM original with 57 years of rust and road grime.
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