Rear window stainless question.
I removed the stainless trim from the rear window a few months ago and am now trying to re-install it. Are there any tricks to puting it back on? Came off pretty easy, but going back on doesn't seem so easy. Any help is appreciated, thanks. Richie. Forgot to mention the year, 1950 Pacemaker Coupe Brougham.
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I've not had the pleasure of re-installing...well...anything on my Hudsons yet


But I do recall the rear window and rear window trim intallation is covered in the Hudson 48-53 Body Manual - I'll try to locate my copy tonight and make a copy unless someone has time to come up with it before...
WARNING: I haven't seen my copy since I moved 1.3 years ago :rolleyes:0 -
rambos_ride wrote:I've not had the pleasure of re-installing...well...anything on my Hudsons yet


But I do recall the rear window and rear window trim intallation is covered in the Hudson 48-53 Body Manual - I'll try to locate my copy tonight and make a copy unless someone has time to come up with it before...
WARNING: I haven't seen my copy since I moved 1.3 years ago :rolleyes:
Thanks Rambos Ride, that might help.Richie.0 -
The manual talks about using a string like mason's cord, and greasing up the lip etc. Good luck. Maybe when the rubber was new, but all I did was cut the lip.
I wound up cutting the lip off with a knife, and putting a healthy bead of transparent 'Seal All' from the True Value hardware store with a caulk gun, putting another bead inside the stainless and pressing it in place, then sealing the edges and smoothing with my finger. The stuff goes on white and dries clear.
It looks good, doesn't leak, and has hung on the back of the commadore for 5 years so far at speeds up to 80 mph.0 -
Uncle Josh wrote:The manual talks about using a string like mason's cord, and greasing up the lip etc. Good luck. Maybe when the rubber was new, but all I did was cut the lip.
I wound up cutting the lip off with a knife, and putting a healthy bead of transparent 'Seal All' from the True Value hardware store with a caulk gun, putting another bead inside the stainless and pressing it in place, then sealing the edges and smoothing with my finger. The stuff goes on white and dries clear.
It looks good, doesn't leak, and has hung on the back of the commadore for 5 years so far at speeds up to 80 mph.
Thanks Uncle Josh, that is exactly what I ended up doing, just finished a few minutes ago. I taped the trim down while the sealer is drying. Will check it in the morning. Thanks again Uncle Josh. Richie.0 -
Richie, need to check at speeds up to 80 mph. How did the window channeling come out, no problems I hope?0
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VicTor Z wrote:Richie, need to check at speeds up to 80 mph. How did the window channeling come out, no problems I hope?
VicTor Z, all the window channeling went in fine and looked great. The 49 had no rattles after the channeling was in. This is another car now, I took all the chrome and stainless off except the Brougham window stainless. This is a two door and I am painting it panel by panel and learning as I go. It is fun and I enjoy doing it. I have the doors off now so it would be a good time to check my channeling. I'll let you know if I need anything. Richie.0 -
Richie wrote:I removed the stainless trim from the rear window a few months ago and am now trying to re-install it. Are there any tricks to puting it back on? Came off pretty easy, but going back on doesn't seem so easy. Any help is appreciated, thanks. Richie. Forgot to mention the year, 1950 Pacemaker Coupe Brougham.
Haven't done a Hudson, and don't have the book in front of me, but on some of the older cars, you had to install the stainless into the slit in the face of the rubber seal BEFORE you installed the window, because installing the window was what caused the pressure that closed the slit and thereby held the trim in. So the slit is held tight after window installed, preventing you from pushing the trim anchor pins in. I try to stay away from speculating on answers to problems, but noted that nobody seemed to be stepping forward with this possibility. Somebody look at your body manual, and tell me if I'm right or wrong.0 -
Wrong. The stainless lip is too far from the window groove and the manual specifies the string method, which might work with 2 guys and a little luck.0
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Uncle Josh wrote:Wrong. The stainless lip is too far from the window groove and the manual specifies the string method, which might work with 2 guys and a little luck.
Sorry all - I haven't been able to locate my body manual.
Using the string is only to pull the rubber lip around the pinchweld.
Some roped in windows you do need to install the stainless into the rubber first...before roping the window in...others you can pop the stainless in afterwards...I'm sure the Hudson Stepdown bodymanul tells the correct procedure...just cant' find it...0 -
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Mike (WA) wrote:Haven't done a Hudson, and don't have the book in front of me, but on some of the older cars, you had to install the stainless into the slit in the face of the rubber seal BEFORE you installed the window, because installing the window was what caused the pressure that closed the slit and thereby held the trim in. So the slit is held tight after window installed, preventing you from pushing the trim anchor pins in. I try to stay away from speculating on answers to problems, but noted that nobody seemed to be stepping forward with this possibility. Somebody look at your body manual, and tell me if I'm right or wrong.
Mike, I did the same thing that Uncle Josh did and it looks OK. I tried the string method and all it did was tear the rubber because it was not soft and pliable. It is done and hopefully will be OK. Thanks for your reply Mike. Richie.0 -
royer wrote:
Thanks Royer,very informative thread. I didn't have my window out, and don't plan on taking it out unless I have to. I'll see how it does like it is and if any problems pop up I'll remove everything and start from scratch. Thanks again. Richie.0 -
Richie wrote:
Walt here. You have to install a new rubber, K-GAP, then install the stainless and tape it real good. One person inside and 2 outside, then start at the bottom and work the lip in real easy. Make sure your glass is centered for if not when you get to the top lip the glass will crack. Glass shops will not guarantee the job.I removed the stainless trim from the rear window a few months ago and am now trying to re-install it. Are there any tricks to puting it back on? Came off pretty easy, but going back on doesn't seem so easy. Any help is appreciated, thanks. Richie. Forgot to mention the year, 1950 Pacemaker Coupe Brougham.0 -
walt's garage-53 wrote:Walt here. You have to install a new rubber, K-GAP, then install the stainless and tape it real good. One person inside and 2 outside, then start at the bottom and work the lip in real easy. Make sure your glass is centered for if not when you get to the top lip the glass will crack. Glass shops will not guarantee the job.
Thanks Walt, I saved all the info and will use it should the window need to come out. Right now it looks OK, and if it doesn't leak I'm good. Time will tell. thanks again, Richie.0 -
I have a similar issue with the stainles steel trim on my '47 Commodore 8 Sedan. Has a fresh paintjob and a fresh headliner on the inside and I've been trying to re-install the stainless without removing the window again because that might result in a gluey mess all over my new headliner to say nothing of scratching the new paint on the car when installing the trim from the outside. Me and my dad got it around the window, but it doesn't wanna seat and then the two little verticle bars that lay against the window are loose.0
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