Wire Trace to Trunk
Just to make sure I am on the right track.....
The trunk segement of the wiring harness comes off the main line, goes left to the driver's side kick panel, up the window frame, back across the roof, down the back window frame and into the trunk.
Is the correct path? I thought I had the right line for the brakes but I am not getting power. Maybe there is a break in the line. The dealer ran a completely new line when they added the turn signal unit (the broken one I am removing and will replace later with a Non-Brake Light type unit).
The trunk segement of the wiring harness comes off the main line, goes left to the driver's side kick panel, up the window frame, back across the roof, down the back window frame and into the trunk.
Is the correct path? I thought I had the right line for the brakes but I am not getting power. Maybe there is a break in the line. The dealer ran a completely new line when they added the turn signal unit (the broken one I am removing and will replace later with a Non-Brake Light type unit).
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Comments
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Hudson308 wrote:That is where the wires are routed. Don't forget to check the brake light switch on the back of the master cylinder... often the culprit.
Thank you very much. Brake light switch is OK. I tested with a separate loop of wire and light.0 -
Interesting that the dealer would add a new line for the turnsignals. My impression was that, on the Pacemaker or Wasp, the brakelight filament served a dual purpose (brakes and turn signal). No additional wiring would be needed, the brakelight wiring serving dual purposes.
Does your car have a second lamp on both sides, for the turn signal?
Just curious.0 -
Jon
Many cars in the late 40's and 50's did not come with directional signals therefore many were added by dealers or aftermarket suppliers. The factory installed indicator circuit on Stepdowns, and here is where it gets a bit fuzzy, were designed and WIRED so as to allow the directional signals to operate through the single tail light bulb (called a seven wire system). Many of the add-on systems including Hudson were a (five wire system) that required a second circuit to be added, (wire) and bulb, to make the system operate.
Fred0 -
Per the family history of the car....
The dealer added the 7 wire turn signal unit when the car was purchased.
The dealer ran new wires up front and to the back. The wire to the trunk was ran inside the passenger cabin, under the door frame. The wire to the front ran out the standard grommet.
They did use the brake light as the trun signal. The wires from the brake light switch were completely replaced as well and returned under the dash to the signal unit harness.
I had to remove some dealer added electrical tape from the main harness to find where the cut the OEM brake light lines. On the front signal lines, I found the dealer left the parking light lines alone from under the dash to the junctions. Same goes for the rear parking lights.
I am returning it to "as built" wiring diagram. Then I will complete the turn signals as a stand alone circuit. I have already added bulbs and yokes to the tail light assemblies. I have tested them using a separate 6v battery. The front parking and signal sockets were replaced by the dealer (I believe) to make them a two wire socket. I have also test these to see that the parking light is steady while using the other filement as a turn signal.0 -
Not sure how the 50 Pacemaaker is wired but the 51 Pace has the wires to the rear lights down the frame not over head. The rear turn signals are a separate bulb that fits in a socket just above the stop and tail bulb.0
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Billy
That ia the way my 49 Super Six is wired as well
Fred0 -
I got it done!!
The dealership left the lines from the brake light switch under the car with some bread wrapper wire tie.0 -
Pacemaker 500
If you haven't finished already, might want to take a look at the description given in the The Mechanical Procedures Manual for dealer installation of after market turn signals. It calls for running the two rear wires in the space bettween the rocker panel and perimeter frame on the driver's side back to the rear of the rear door, then up into the trunk and to the top of the fender, where they parallel the tail light wires which come over from the roof. Wires then go into the junction block by driver's side taillight and on to separate bulbs in the L & R housings.
Both front and rear wires leave the interior through the firewall grommet, those to the back enter the perimeter frame at outer fender, just behind the wheel well.
Need to use a separate wire to pull the electrical wiring for both front and back. Manual gives a good description of procedure. Don't have to pull rockers, only the door sills. Wires well protected, but need to tape wires where they enter the trunk to protect from chafing. Need to get a water tight seal where the wires enter to prevent future rust. Walt-LA0 -
Walt-LA wrote:If you haven't finished already, might want to take a look at the description given in the The Mechanical Procedures Manual for dealer installation of after market turn signals.
Yes, it does. And I was looking there to see where the Dealer wires were. But it was obvious the Dealer ran the rear wire inside the passenger compartment. Since I initially did not see the OEM harness Brake Switch wires under the car, I figured I would have to run new lines.
I just happened to use my very bright 150w work light instead of the light stick when getting ready to clean up the brake light switch. And , voila, I see wires.
When I do install a simpler turn signal unit (later this summer or winter), I will use the steps found in the manual. I even plan on upgrading the junction points in the trunk and remake the cross over wire fromt the left side to the right.
I might even add wires for speakers to be placed in the read deck.0
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